Hello!
I have to say: I went just super - and plans its tours and sightseeing implemented, and with loved ones mentally talked. Impressions picked up to the top. In general, very satisfied.
Unfortunately, it was no longer the euphoria that first visit - whether
the temptation to become, or older ... But anyway - it was great!
I am flying this time not of our Red Banner Airbaltic, and Hungarian Wizzair. However, low-cost airlines.
As for cheap, I think, a little hasty Magyars
(Eventually turned around the same price), but about convenience - no
comparison with the Latvian airline: and departure-arrival time is
normal, and departure days here and there in the assortment. In short, it is much more convenient.
Here it is necessary to clarify a bit if someone else does not know.
I flew and returned on Friday. Those. us this is the end of the week. AND to return, there are a couple of days to come a. I mean, after a rest.
But in Israel on Friday afternoon life stops. And leave the airport after 16.00 on anything not his - is very difficult.
A valiant Airbaltic services its offers exactly at this time. If my memory serves me, you arrive at the promised land Friday midnight and depart again on the Sabbath, neither light nor dawn. Getting no one cares to / from the airport.
Globally, the program of stay was about the same as in the past, and my visit to the Land of Israel. A week in the north, a week in the south.
From Riga booked several excursions (Petra Jordanian and Palestinian Bethlehem). Otherwise, all on their own. I mean, disorganized.
Well, because the start this time decided to south, took a car ahead of
time, and once in, Ben-Gurion: if you want to see the country in a
relatively short period of time - without a car in any way.
There were no small adventure - good Ilyukha (friend, classmate) came to meet me! He did, many times rescued me in terms of communication with the local actors ...
A simple example - in Israel are filled not like us. It should be somewhere else for some reason, enter information about yourself (or about cars?).
So I refueled: Dial Ilyukh, as he explains on the phone at a gas
station operator in Hebrew, that, say, Rousseau tourists - it is
necessary to fill ...
So, about the rental at the airport.
First, a bank card there was an unexpected problem - after a 15-minute
telephone conversation with the Riga Bank razrulili question.
But here new difficulties - to order the car unforeseen complications gave some tarantayku instead ordered swallows .
Stop signals are off, all kind of pokotsali ... Inside, too, something
not so it was - I do not remember ... I had to change the contract.
Ilyukha organizing exchange, he drove off to Haifa - Friday, as I said.
Good. Now you need to go to the airport parking. He sat down, went ... and stared at the check point with barriers. Moreover, I am no one gave in a rolling office - no coupons at checkout.
Pancake! one-way traffic. Included emergency gang, calling Ilyukh: HELP! what to do?!
Until he figured out, I went to see: what, in fact, do the rest? It appears, press the button and the machine take the exit voucher.
Ok, I did the same. But again the question: then what to do with this voucher ?!
Okay, I traveled 300 meters - ran into another PPC with barriers. He called for help a person with a gun: I say, I want to go!
He smiled, took my voucher (obtained from the machine back to 300 m),
and put it into the turnstile / shlagbaumniket: ehay says!
The meaning of manipulation with coupons for me and has remained a mystery.
I remembered the anecdote about Saturday.
Testing sees the big picture: one activist digs pits, followed by another of their digs. Testing is interested in what's going on? Why is the first digs and digs in the second?
His answer: it is not the second, and the third. The second - the one that had trees planted - to work did not come out ...
Kohl began about troubles Airport to tell, will continue.
I got to the site of delivery of rolling machines (this is a week -
when he arrived at Ben Gurion to return the car) also did not
immediately - little signage zamorochennye.
Plus some confusion with the numbers of terminals: type of third - a former 1st ... or vice versa? Okay, not the point!
Straight mysticism: ezdiyu-ezdiyu - not to find! It seems to be ground! And no ...
The main index of the parking (Rent
car return) - as a policeman in the bush: to see, you need to look
closely at a low speed, and - staring at the sky having lifted up his
head, either, it is necessary that you advance warning someone.
But in 30-50 m (in case you did not notice the main index, and accidentally drove) is another. That is what can be seen at once from afar. Complete the illusion that this is the most important milestone on the road to happiness. Like, we definitely there!
Only a wraith it: it is a circle - coming back again to the main index. Well, the fact that it is not visible.
Not noticed, I slipped - and again went to the second round. I did three laps until the twilight was looking for! Even out of the car, I am trying to touch the enchanted area to find.
But with the surrender of any questions - we took the car quickly, easily and naturally.
By the way. All up to date: the machine is necessary to take with a full tank. And last refueling on the way to the airport was still quite far away. And I loitering around the airport looking for, and he longingly koshus fuel level - a reluctance to pay for Nedolya ...
And fill up, it turns out, It can be at the airport! On the way to this very Rent car return there refueling.
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| Dimona |
Okay. After all these vicissitudes, I arrived in Dimona to Natasha somewhat later than planned. In the evening a good sat and waved in the morning to soak in the Dead Sea - Ein Bokek for the whole day. Relax.
In principle, Israel is popular this holiday: long doing nothing near the hotel swimming pool. At the Dead Sea, Eilat, or somewhere else. Eat-Drink-worry-sunbathe, swim.
You can dance in the pool under the catchy music - animator girl
standing on the shore contribute: show motion ... Yom Kaif in Hebrew. Those. day buzz.
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| Dead Sea |
And, on the Dead Sea to bathe itself, they almost do not go - hot. Actually - yes +43 was (carpet near the hotel swimming pool to the red-hot dinner - a bare foot does not step ...). And why, actually ?! If the hotel has a pool with water from the Dead Sea ...
By the way, it appears in the Dead Sea can not be rinsed more than 15 minutes - comes intoxication. And, of course, can not splash: painfully fretting that water, an infection! A drop in the eye hit - help! And rub in any way ... The blessing on the shores of the soul there.
And I told terrible stories how sometimes oak gives people right there in the sea. And then hooks the body of water pull ... Well, about the hooks it is my version.
Well, in short, I have a circle of four all-bath jacuzzi pools visited,
sunbathe, and bought in the Dead Sea several times, and is still bored
after a hearty lunch. Well skimped this holiday - I went in search of adventure.
I reached Lot's wife (the one that turned into a pillar of salt - if
true, was a tall aunt) and climbed into the cave where Lot and his
daughters cohabited.
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| Lot's Cave |
Well che, dark and cool. Deep is not useful, because the hole was narrow and low. And the flashlight would not have had the phone for a long time. So, on 30-40 meters deepened ...
By the way. Morals were in those days, however.
I mean, if that's Lot and his daughters after incest occurred further
considered innocent righteous, even to a loss than the others were doing
the citizens of Sodom - Their Lord ugrohal something without thinking ...
And here one of these days know - fallen arches of the cave! Wow: I stood for so many centuries, and now you ...
But the next day, on Sunday, he pulled up to Jerusalem. I put the machine near Yad Vashem, and walk off in the direction of the Old Town.
Interestingly, too. Although, frankly, and was not particularly interesting - nothing special I did not see during that walk. Or maybe just not there was ...
Is that stayed bridge for trams and pedestrians (David Harp) impressed
with its uniqueness - inclined pylon, support the strings ... I'm still
in the last time, in 2011, drew attention to some strange sticking out
in the middle of the city pipsik somewhere far away - I wondered
remember: and that there is silver ...?
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| David Harp |
Pritopat in the Old Town, and a lot of time recalled that where there. Of course I visited,
near the Western Wall, chatted back and forth through the crowded
streets, bought souvenirs, and perhaps all - poshkandybal back to the
car. So far reached - spitting: the hell I needed to put the car dash where ?!
What to look for in the Old Town: beggars near the synagogue lot. No, not the ones that ask for alms.
Suitable for your uncle is quite civil appearance.
First friendly inquiries (who, where, how impressed?) then - say, my children 7-12 (variable). Therefore extradite a minute of money, my dear man!
Nooo ?!
Blessed with faces somewhere immediately disappears as compulsive talkativeness.
And - run to the next victim.
Now I have the impression then that datishnyh (Jewish believers), it seems, no other worries, okromya how to cook the kids.
Or maybe they work prohibits faith?
Priests still, Jewish with red rope stick like flies - again beg for money for the services of tying tying.
Motivation - at the synagogue! Maybe yes. But, in any way, somehow it does not looks ochen.V last visit I had ever seen.
Red wool thread, which is tied on the wrist - a kind of amulet
kaballistichesky: do not covet anything bad to anyone, and then you will
be happy. The common thread that surround the tomb pre vseevreyskoy matriarch Rachel in Bethlehem, and then cut it to length. In the sense - thread. Upakovochku with a few meters of thread in the Kabbalah Center costs about 10 euros.
By the way, very much doubt that similar, but unpackaged crafts sold by
the Arabs on the streets of Old Jerusalem, passed all the necessary
procedures for lighting ...
However, the pop that I was tied to the Old Town, the details of the
ritual, too, especially not to go: grabbed by the arm, made his case,
muttering incantations under his nose, and asked for 100 wk work. We agreed on a lesser amount - twisted, true, but took.
Although, as I realized later, 25 euros for Israel - a small amount. Approximately two packs of cigarettes. Can therefore requests from there the priests are ...
I once visited a few days later in Jerusalem - on Wednesday, I think.
This time the car put the free 10-minute walk from the old town - the
last visit yet borne fruit: when walking, spotted Free parking.
So I come early in the morning: the people - no one at all. Even in the Holy Sepulchre, I was the only visitor.
Pofotkat deserted streets, then, when they began to fill up, went through the Jewish Quarter in the grave of David. And passing by the Western Wall, look - the people on the platform rises to the Temple Mount.
I go jogging. Lucky - had: visitors are only allowed upstairs in the morning. Passport was well with him - check.
But when, having taken a walk for an hour at the Temple Mount and the
Arab quarter, I delight in the same Makarov vozvernut back - figushki! Slightly international conflict provoked.
Jewish soldiers / soldier's missed me (on me is not written who I am),
but the guard in Arabic on the other side of the PPC to be vigilant.
You, mister, where?
From Latvia! - I said proudly, assuming no catch.
Excuse me, he says, but only for Muslims.
And I went to yell at the Jewish servicemen. Those him with machine guns at the ready: who, where ?!
And I - face kettle, and sideways, sideways, shus in the other direction. Barely legs carried ...
Well, after the Temple Mount, I also climbed into the earth - with an
excursion to the tunnels along the Western Wall came down: Ilyukha
telephone suggested the presence of such an option ...
I was the third time during this visit happened to find himself in Jerusalem - but later on it.
In short, Jerusalem had enough. Though, certainly, there is still much there to see.
On Monday I soaped to Petra for a day. I mean, in Jordan. As said, being ordered tour in Riga - in the Israeli firm Noah. The tour is not cheap - something around 300 euros, but well worth it.
The announced price for the transfer of Dimona also plunged into a
light shock: either 500, or 600 bucks ... But I'm interested in the
transfer of purely out of curiosity - all the same the car rented.
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| Wadi Araba Crossing |
He came to 8.00 at the Wadi Araba Crossing (also known as terminal
Yitzhak Rabin), put the car in the makeshift parking lot - for some
reason a civilized parking is not allowed, and waited for the promise of
a representative of the travel agency, admiring the surrounding
plantations of date palms.
Manager after some time, he drew a small group of the same turystov, like to Eilat.
We draw up the documents at the checkpoint and went walking on the Jordanian side. There we were met by a guide, a Jordanian, and - surprise turned out to be English-speaking cicerone.
I'm a little surprised (ordered a trip with commentary in Russian), but the form is not submitted. On the way back, in the evening, already in Israel, of course, I asked to travel agent - it does that mean ?!
It was raffled considerable surprise bordering on outrage: how ?! can not be!!!
Then, after the presentation of the correspondence on the phone, he was embarrassed and apologetic sprinkled ashes on his head. But compensation is not offered.
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| Israel-Jordan. Borderland. |
After an hour of waiting at the bedraggled Jordanian border checkpoint
with the sole attraction - a huge stand-portrait of the local monarch -
we finally got into the van and went to the mysterious Peter.
On the way we stop at the pit-stop, as usual, in some roadside souvenir
shop (girl-saleswoman me kufiyu outfit, make up your eyes - the
spitting image of prynts sands).
Poflanirovav little front of the mirror admiring glances under the
trade workers, I was sweating pretty - had to disrobe: pryntsa of me did
not work.
I say, I'll have a smoke on the street. Seller: Yes che you, bro, in fact, smoke here!
By the way, in all other Jordanian stores, which went, people also smoked on the shop floor ...
And then - Peter. About her unwritten and written a lot - there is no sense to repeat. In short - a delight. Moreover, the greatest - namely from the deep, infinitely long, sophisticated multi-color, winding gorge. All other ancient buildings in Petra, of course, are impressive. But mastery with nature nobody and nothing can compare.
By the way, for reference: the first attended to the restoration of Nabataean Petra, it turns out the Romans. Baked after the empire of the preservation of historical monuments ...
Yes, it turned out later, the upper temple is what we have not got. The guide, as I recall, we left before the execution, saying that now a private time - enjoy. He mentioned, however, that somewhere there is another attraction. But her path is not close and thorny - n-Noe number of steps need to be overcome. Therefore, they say, do not overwork the heat - enough to climb, explore the nearby ruins.
And, as it turned out, we got there and did not have time to run: we
were given only a 1.5 hour to a feast of soul - in that time just did
not really explore everything down and then another climb to the Temple
... So, so.
Although, if we had not lost so much time at the border and in the souvenir shops - then it would be likely to have time. But, apparently, a visit to the top of the Temple was not originally included in the plans of the insidious reptile guide.
That is, as I understand it, that is normal to see everything without
haste, Petra is better to go for 2 days instead of one day. Or should be worn 8-12 hours in the heat, as the savraske.
By the way, you can also save time - donkeys, horses, camels, cab - all
this guzhpark in the range offered by the local Bedouins.
However, trot gallop through the magnificence of the gorge in the style
of Indiana Jones - in my opinion, unwise: Well, what do you see? Whether business on foot: wanted to admire - stopped ... Especially since apparently there is something to see.
By the way, I later interviewed friends once visited Petra with a day trip: and who has reached the top of the Temple? No one.
They returned to Israel in the evening. Before dark I still had to go to Eilat, take a dip in the Red Sea.
Well, after that day (Monday to Tuesday) I had the plan been meteoric
in Timna (like, the very haggardovskie King Solomon's mines) - it is
just on the way to / from Eilat.
Even in Riga had read on the Internet enthusiastically, promising note
about the Perseids (this meteor rain - trail of some kind of a comet). And best of all it will be seen svetopredstavlenie in the Negev desert. Those. just when and where and when I wanted to be.
Came - not a soul. And not see a damn thing. Lantern is not ...
I leave your car on the road and went to investigate.
After reconnaissance (and I found a parking and office, and even the WC
M / F), located in the parking lot near the retsepshana reserve on the
bench - stocked up ahead of time pad, the better to observe the night
sky.
I was lying in the front row of the auditorium - looking forward. Romance: the moon is shining, starry sky, quiet - only the wind rustling foliage and exotic cicadas chirping ...
However, here the stars quite often lose something did not want to fall. Waited, waited, and went to sleep. I woke up several times in the hope - vain. Sulked.
And as the dawn wandered by Timna: Again, I will not retell described to me more than once.
I will say one thing.
The impression of a strange - even where it felt like explorers of the
time: the heat, bare rocks around, there is almost no vegetation, people
can not see ...
And in the depths of this lifeless, suddenly - a wonderful oasis of a
swimming pool, a fountain, penthouses, bungalows, shop / cafe /
restaurant (or something similar to that) ... And the silence ...
Wow. But, it seemed, some things are not very well maintained in the Timna. Maybe not the season: who train hunting in the 50 degree weather to spend time there ...
But drew attention to one detail. The fact that I did not go back on the road and round the mountain range. Those. left untrodden paths again to move: Timna Park is located in the mountain like the pit - in / out of it are a few narrow roads.
So: from the highway rock mountains razed by bulldozers - that is, It was hollow, but smoothly. And if you want, if that, in this solomonovsky pit it can be easy to drop from the rear in armored vehicles ...
On the way back to Dimona decided to drive through the notorious Big crater - Ramon.
Well, Che, is impressive. Huge. Types of really beautiful and quite ethereal. I mean, there is no green vaasche. Do not let the god come to be here without water and modern technical support ...
Well, about "wild" goats I have already told the last time - they are begging everywhere, where people stop for a snack ...
By the way, I still contrived and natyril figs from the tree - the benefit was nyzenkaya tree near the road. On the palate, crisp, sweet and astringent, these dates, it turns out - we have something they are only in the form of dried fruit ...
He remembered another interesting point. I once said, they say, the people here periodically goes into the woods on the skewers. Well, in my view, the forest - a forest.
And when I saw the pictures of familiar faces among the stunted stunted
plants, this, by itself, have caused me a condescending smile.
So. His eyes saw: on signs in black and white - Forest-so!
Yes, with vegetation trouble in Israel ... I have somewhere heard / read that almost 70-80% of the local flora - Artificial origin. Those. planted, grown in the past decade ...
And the mushrooms grow here! Ilyukha told that the people in Haifa walking on mushrooms ...
And along the roads Negev armored polygons endless - place a suitable ...
A "Ktsiot" prison has passed - it contains local terrorists ...
On Thursday, he hits the road in the Israeli Air Force Museum at Beer Sheba and Shivta.
Air Force Museum, as they say, almost the best in the world. Official exhibition, however, for some reason, is limited to an extensive fleet at the site.
But does the inscription "NO ENTRANCE!" someone stopped when? And in the bins full polurazobrannom air defense weapons and airplanes all-different ... Even rusty Tanchiki there ...
A Shivta ... Destroyed by an earthquake Nabatean city along the Incense Route.
Since it is deep in the desert, over the past century, it has not taken
away for building materials ... And standing under the scorching sun,
the poor fellow, almost a thousand years ...
Alas.
Time passed quickly - the program was very intensive: direct
kaleidoscope of impressions ... It was also a wonderful farewell party
at Khrystyna with Max, and, of course, nightly conversations with
Natasha for a glass of tea ... it was wonderful - as if he did not leave
all these years .
But came Friday. Now, to the north!
In the morning, I drove to Ben Gurion car, walked for an hour on Jaffa Sasha, sat on the train, and - tu-tu!
Ilyukha waiting for me at the station - it is in Haifa directly by the
sea: take out of the car towel, left the bag - and the spot myrnuli in
the Mediterranean Sea.
Then pivechko on the beach, then dinner with a barbecue on the balcony
and frosty vodka out of the fridge ... In general, the evening was a
success.
And then the whole week was a continuous whirl of endless journeys and long-reels hanging out the sights. It climbed almost the whole north of Israel.
The ruins of the Crusader outpost Montfort (true to the fortress was
never reached), the caves of Rosh Hanikra - a tunnel is built by
Alexander the Great, Nazareth, Safed bohemian with traces of bullets and
shrapnel on the walls.
Notorious Golan padded with rusting tanks and Nimrod Fortress,
Capernaum on the shores of the Sea of Galilee, where, according to the
Gospels, Jesus performed many miracles, Akko / Acre / Saint-Jean d'Acre - perfectly preserved city of the Crusaders ...
We visited and wineries (and, uh ...).
Of course, and Haifa little poshastali-wander.
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| Haifa |
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| Capernaum |
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| Montfort |
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| Nazareth |
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| Nimrod |
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| Rosh Hanikra |
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| Safed |
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| traces of bullets ... |
During the break, I hit the road for a day with a trip to Bethlehem -
very much I wanted to go to the Palestinian Authority (turns out to
Israeli citizens, as well as the Temple Mount, the input is ordered). The trip was a little strange - with a lot of transplants from one bus to another: few summer tourists and firms cooperate.
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| Roadside cafe ELVIS |
In general, in the Authority I saw quite a bit: the town we almost walked - the usual tour package to the holy places. Plus a short check-in at the gift shop.
Although the guide-Palestinian claimed that in Bethlehem - as once in
Baghdad - all is quiet, somehow I do not really believe it.
Embarrassing barbed wire on the walls of the Church of the Nativity,
and the apparent reluctance of the guide to walk around the city, even
to the Milk Grotto (where the Mother of God breastfeed her child).
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| Bethlehem. At the souvenir shop. In the background, entering the tunnel - way to autonomy. |
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| Entrance to the Church of the Nativity |
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All the furniture - a gift to the Russian imperial court
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| Here the Magi left their gifts |
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| Church of the Nativity |
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| Bur ... |
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| Behind the fence - Milk Grotto |
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| Bethlehem. The view from the observation deck |
And when they came back (after lengthy persuasion, but to go somewhere
we had nothing at all), the guide, in order not to go back on foot to
the Grotto caused our minibusik ...
And the photo shoot (as it stopped at the viewing platform) we gave only a few minutes ...
Another point. Somehow it was too near everything going on in those days. Here Jesus was born in a cave, and then, in the 50 meters there is another cave - the murdered babies ... Strange somehow ...
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| The cave entrance is murdered babies. In the background - the entrance to the Basilica of the Nativity. |
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| PPC after the tunnel. Well, the wall ... |
But on the way back from Bethlehem, I unexpectedly (later explain), I was in Ein Karem - a wonderful suburb of Jerusalem. John the Baptist Motherland (aka John the Baptist). Very beautiful.
And round about the story: here someone someone once met, then someone
was born, where someone hid ... Let all reservations: according to
legend, the alleged. But how many years have passed something. Here and a couple of months ago - and then can not remember ...
We visited the Franciscan monastery and the name of this same John. Place of Birth Baptist marked on the floor of the cave refined much the same way as in Bethlehem.
So down to the spring of Mary ... In short, a pilgrimage.
Interestingly served in Gorny Convent (by the way, the jurisdiction of
the ROC) - a powerful first bells, then a woman reads a prayer into the
microphone, and speakers translate her words all around ... Impressive.
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| Ein Kerem. Gorny Convent. |
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| Franciscan Monastery of St. John the Baptist |
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| Mary Source |
With a tour guide here I was lucky - a lot of interesting things porasskazyval. Maybe he is stretching the truth, but exciting.
And about the same Kazan church (about the relics of saints, about
annals), and about the history of Chardonnay - supposedly it was
kogda-to wine exported to Europe by the Crusaders, and the name
"Chardonnay" has gone from consonant words in Hebrew.
And about the fact that near Tel Aviv at Lydda buried St. George and
the church on his grave has two inputs: on the one hand the mosque, on
the other - Catholic Church ...
Actually, looking at the map of Jerusalem in Riga, I do not really understand the position of objects on the ground. It seemed to me - everything is close: and Bethlehem and Ein Kerem ... Che there - a walk!
Near nearby. Only on different hills. And as if in a straight line - yes, on the doorstep. Within the limits of visibility. From a certain point, of course.
Single story - rafting on Dana (it is the largest tributary of the
Jordan - do not dry up, in contrast to many other waterways Israel).
No, nothing really was not tough - perhaps during the spring and more, and the water level above. But it was very funny. And somewhere fatefully.
Before you boot into watercraft, Ilyukha acquired special rope for the points in the local shop - not to lose.
Well, we did not lose the rope. A glasses drowned. Who sun, and I - his own, with diopters. -4.5. Spare not. Catastrophe…
They began to ring up friends, all ears raised: book glasses are urgent - for at least three days. And I'll go on ?! And the next day had to go to Bethlehem ...
I had to agree on the transfer date. That's how I got in Ein Kerem after Bethlehem.
Make no mistake. Travel companies offer several different excursions with Bethlehem in the package.
There is only Bethlehem + lunch (where I was going, being in Riga -
because, as he said, he decided to Ein Kerem on foot to walk from
Jerusalem), and is Bethlehem + Ein Kerem. This tour, I was convinced, less satisfying, but much more intense spiritual. I mean, interesting.
In general, I bought on the way back to Tiberias / Tiberias disposable
contact lenses (they can not be more than 8 hours at a time to wear). And in parallel we collected all the relatives, friends, acquaintances even as a suitable glasses. They took everything. Movies and Germans, in short ...
Plague with these lenses ... Experience something wearing no - do not
wear them, you will not get ... And then they fall out at the most
inopportune moment.
Read to them, too, I can not (arms not long enough) - but as a phone to use ...?!
In short: know-how.
If the lens in one eye - and you can look into the distance, and reading. Checked!
But if the lenses in two eyes - to read, should be far-sighted glasses (the ones with a plus) use. Also check!
Well, perhaps that's all. Photos rest, as usual, on facebook.
